MICRONESIAN ISLAND OF GUAM

WHERE AMERICA'S DAY BEGINS

Sunrise on Tumon Bay, Guam

The land of two volcanoes joined together at the top. The land immerged from the world’s deepest ocean. The land of two lovers tied their hair together and jumped off the cliff. The land a Japanese POW hid in the cliffs for 28 years after the World War II. The land their Governor committed suicide tied to a statue in the middle of a busy intersection.  The land where America's day begins.   This is the land I lived for six years, this is where I grew into womanhood.  This place is called Hagåtña, Guam.

If you don't know where it is, which I confess my geography lessons did not include the Pacific Rim, here is a map.

Flying in from the southern part, passing the point where Korean Air crashed in 1997 and nestled between Nimitz Hill and Barrigada Heights sits AB Won Pat International Airport.  On high ground it is possible to see the two oceans on either side, for the island at certain points, is only four miles wide.   A windy island, the sea mist spray  is a constant reminder that, its just a dot in the middle of this vast Pacific Ocean.  At the northern part of the island US Anderson Airforce Base protects the Pacific region and the Southern part is occupied by the US Naval Base

First impressions are what sticks, no matter how things turn out, it is this biased memory that is based on, when judgment calls.   As an avid traveller and like to live a nomad existence, it was an adventurous and exciting move.   It would have been a one-upmanship if I was moving to Paris or Rome, friends and family would have used our abode as home-base whilst gallivanting in Europe, (heaven forbid) but Guam did nothing for my street cred.  Nobody was interested in visiting me.   Their loss - my gain.

Island living does give you “island fever”.  An unbearable situation when stuck on the island for a lengthy period of time. Unfortunately to relieve the angst  when  “fever” strikes, it’s a plane trip, expensive and far.  There were no concerts, art museums, or theatre to be amused by,  but what they had to give was much more.

What this place did, no Rome or Paris could ever have done.  It was a place that gave me true friendship.  It was a place where common sense overrode sticky situations.   It was a place I learnt to become a parent.  It was a place I learnt to entertain and not be entertained by.   It was a place I learnt about me, and it was a place I will be forever connected.

There are many things that combine to make Guam special.   Not in any order, these are the things mixed together and they spell my interlude with Micronesia.

Merizo Fiesta, Celebrating San Dumas

An island that bases itself on US timeline, the Chamorro root and culture overrides outside influences.  My first introduction to the Charmorro way of life was a Guam fiesta.  A feast of gigantic quantity, effectively many long tables stuck together with BBQ Chicken, Red Rice, Chicken Adobe, Hamburgers, Hot dogs, BBQ ribs, salads, enough to feed a whole village, and I am not exaggerating.

Bat Stew

Exploring the Southern part on Route 4, cars parked everywhere as we approached Merizo village.  They were celebrating their patron saint, San Dumas. Some stranger waved for us to stop and join in the festivities.  A tent constructed in front of the Church had tables laden with food, glorious food.  I tried everything but the bat stew, Guam's signature Fanihi was off limits for me.   These are fruit bats with the wing span still intact.  Chicken Keleguan is full of flavor, tangy and tasty and the Leche flan done with sweetened condensed milk is soft and smooth melt in the mouth custard.

DEMONIC SEASONS

Nature is cruel and every year the typhoon season visits Guam.   Not all typhoons are devastating but there have been some awful casualties.   Depending on the slow or fast advance of the typhoon, it can last up to 6 or 8 hours with unrelenting winds of 200 mph. Coconuts on trees have devastating effects much like bullets.

Although forecast warnings go from Condition 1 through 4, there is plenty of time to lock down cars, windows, and loose objects on buildings. Our verandah, a floor above and overlooking the pool had outside furniture. For fear of loose objects flying around, the furnishings were brought inside but left the heavy leaded table outside.  Moving it would have required three strong men, so judging from the severity of the Typhoon condition to be mild - now a dab hand at it, I went to bed with howling wind as my background music.

Checklists in my head on stocks of tin foods, batteries, water, all down to a pat - I let the Gods do their thing while I closed my eyes beckoning sleep.

The calmness of the morning perhaps scarier that the  growling of last night had me draw the full length curtains to witness the destruction.  Guam just looked like it had been in a magi-mix at full speed.  Broken trees, leaves, fallen buildings, water everywhere.  My Avocado tree heavily laden with fruit now left with just a stump.  The heavy glass sitting on top of the lead table on the verandah also disappeared.  That had me very worried that it might have flown out and decapitated someone, as I could not find the large 3ft diameter heavy glass top.  When the swimming pool was cleaned a few days later, the glass was found sunk at the deep end.  It must have flown with the 200 mile wind for 50 yards and landed nicely in the pool.


RISKY, CHANCY ADVENTURE

Sharks Pit Guam

Sufficiently challenging to Scuba dive in Guam, it is more unnerving to dive at Sharks Pit near Tipalao.  A dumping ground for garbage, this was where my buddy, James, says is most beautiful.  “Occasionally you might meet a shark or two”, he said.  “Just stay calm, and follow me”.    Never one to back out, the scarier the better, I slipped into my flippers, weighted belt, snorkel mask and tank and just before I jumped in, my buddy forewarned me.

The current sweeps around the corner and usually runs west to east.  But it has been known to change mid-dive.  

Sea Fan - Shark pit

Then there are numerous beautiful sea fans at 45 feet and usually beside them sits these poisonous Stonefish.  Once you step on it, there’s only two hours before death, so speedy medical response is required.

Adrenalin pumping, my fears switched between sharks, current change, and stone fish not to mention many other mishaps that can occur along the way.

Stone Fish - shark pit

Foolish - yes

  Crazy stupid – yes.  

The current did change mid-dive, the sharks went swimming by undisturbed, and I spotted a stonefish without stepping on it.

Baby sharks off Shark's Pit - Guam

AT ONE WITH THE FISHES

In between having two babies, (a known myth that Guam waters drive fertility doctors out of business) Deep Sea Fishing became a weekend activity. 

Known for the love of rough seas, I was part of  an avid deep sea sport fishing group.   Located on the edge of the deepest point of the ocean in the world, the Marianas Trench is circled with beautiful coral reefs.  We each take turns to sit on the chair when the reel is rolled as the fish takes the bait.  Patience is key.  Strength is key.  I have scored a Mahi Mahi, strapped into the chair for more than two hours.

My Deep Sea Fishing buddies

IN  TRANSIENT

Guam is a transient place where people come and go.  Small and with only 120,000 people on the island, the chance to meet someone who is  connected with my home country and who also wrote a cookbook on Thai cusine is miniscule. At a party Jennifer Brennan was introduced to me, she had just published a book "The Original Thai Cookbook"  Skeptical that an English woman could write about Thai cooking, I took to task and tried more than half the recipes. Showing off my skills to Guamanians with the help of this book, made my stay on this wonderful island much the celebrity chef.

Try the Thai fried Bananas, usually bought on the street, the recipe here is
perfect.






REAL  FRIENDSHIPS 

The "island loneliness" suffered by all, made the most incredible friendships.   They last because Guam, despite its idyllic beaches, tropical weather, great people, was a place to make your own entertainment, as there was nothing else to be entertained by.  You had to be creative, and you had to be willing to give.

I became a parent, drawing together, others in the same position.  The bond becomes unbreakable.  These shared experiences helped to unite us in a common theme - stuck on an island, help is at hand.

Lastly I am forever grateful to be able to give my children American citizens as their birth right, as Guam Memorial Hospital was the first roof they have ever known.