THE PEACOCK THRONE ONCE A UPON A TIME

From the Flames of Persia to the Devil’s Feast

The celebration of uninterrupted monarchial rule for 2,500 years enviable to  all the world’s monarchial institutions was commemorated in the famed ruins of Persepolis.   The site chosen as the authentic site of the founding of the Persian empire by Cyrus the Great, it is also the ultimate symbol of Iran’s monarchy and civilization.   

I was honored to be privy to such a historical phenomenon never to be repeated, encompassing the “center of gravity of the world” at that time.  This event has remained etched firmly in memory despite the rise of Ayatollah Khomeini, the fall of the Pahlavi Dynasty, Jimmy Carter’s indecisiveness, of his aggressive national security advisor, Zbigniew Brzezinsk, and my failing Farsi skills, the recall of such an event needs to be told from a perspective of how those three filled days of partying, ceremonies, Son et Lumière shows, fountains of Beluga’s finest, to Moet’s Premiere Cru.

Fifty 'tents' (actually prefabricated luxury apartments with traditional Persian tent-cloth surrounds) were arranged in a star pattern around a central fountain, and vast numbers of trees were planted around them in the desert, recreating something of how the ancient Persepolis would have looked.  

International invitees included the rich and famous of the time, a dozen kings and queens, ten princes and princesses, presidents and first ladies, sheiks, sultans, emperors, vice presidents, prime ministers, foreign ministers, ambassadors.   I was merely the teenage daughter of an ambassador, stuffed in between greatness and palace etiquette: to be seen but not heard. My father had an important role in 1969, as he was instrumental in achieving the successful State Visit of  King Bhumipol Adulyadej and Queen Sirikit of Thailand to Iran.

To celebrate this momentous event, The Shah of Iran was to make a ritualistic speech in front of all invited guests at Cyrus’s tomb. The parade of Persian history in front of all Kings, Queens and Head of States in front of Cyrus's Tomb was spectacular.  Persepolis an ancient site, is 60 kms north of the beautiful town of Shiraz.  Known for its exquisite roses, Shiraz became the cultural capital of Iran.

The Royal guests had direct telephone and telex connections back to their respective country and the whole celebration was televised to the world by way of a satellite connection from the site. The large Tent of Honor was designed for the reception of the dignitaries. The Banqueting Hall, the largest structure was kept cool by several

air-conditioning units combating 40c heat during the day; then turned warm for the stark cold nights.

  

Maxim’s of Paris flew in cargo plane loads, feeding 600 guests for 5 hours on the first evening.   The menu was lavish, paired with extravagant wine and Champagne from Château de Saran 

Like liquid gold with every sip, the Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1945 was also served to all the 600 guests. Thousands of empty bottles were then buried in prepared dug up sites, so there can be no evidence of alcohol  consumption under Islamic rule.

Quails eggs stuffed with golden Imperial Caspian caviar followed by mousse of crayfish tails with Nantua sauce.   A choice of roast saddle of lamb with truffles but the piece de resistance was definitely the roasted peacock, Iran’s ancient national symbol.  Cleaning the palate with glazed port fresh figs with cream and raspberry champagne sorbet was refreshing as if this was last nights meal.  Unfortunately it also proved to be the beginning of an anti-Shah revolution as Khomeni describes this as the “Devils’s Feast”.  I was lucky enough to taste these delectable morsels behind  the kitchen with my handsome minder, Mumtaz.  His sole job was to keep me safe out of harm's way.

Every night the female guests received a souvenir at the dinner table, every male counter part also had their names and titles engraved on souvenirs, etched discreetly with the Peacock crest, symbol of the Pahlavi dynasty. 

Time Magazine put the event costing 100 Billion dollars,  the French press actually doubled that number.  The lavishness was  in fact astonishing to witness.  Alexandre and Carita, the two top French salons came with throngs of personnel to adequately coif Princess Anne and Princess Grace’s locks among other royalties for the festivities.

Once upon a time, my fairy story to be amongst  Kings, Princes, Heads of States left right and centre came true, but nothing compares to being lifted by the Imperial Helicopter for a brief sensational 20 minuet ride on return to Shiraz.   To Cyrus the Great, to the Pahlavi's, and especially to the Iranian people, who suffered incalculable deprivation  by such extravagant show of power, I take with me such incredible memories never to be repeated.  

To the Shah and the Shahbanu, this was no party of the year but was the celebration of 25 centuries. At the peak of his sovereignty, it was a show of power, of style, and the penultimate extravagance against the suffering of his people to the world.  To those that were privy either serving behind the scenes, or invitees, it was an event that is so unique, deserves once upon a time, a spot on a blog.