Tuesday, December 4, 2012

TRAVELS TO THE BAYOU AND BEYOND


Mardi Gras Jester





Synchronicity and synergy was the force that landed me in New Orleans Louis Armstrong Airport as part of a working group on a trip from New Orleans to New Mexico.  Five arrived from Bangkok via Chicago, with the remaining two, including myself from Los Angeles incredulously met at the same time despite delayed and missed flights. Mysteriously our airlines seemed to have synchronized our arrivals and the party were puzzlingly reunited in the ladies room inside the terminal.

My only sketchy knowledge of New Orleans at that point, was the Mardi Gras, Katrina, Beignet and Ghosts.  How uneducated can one be?  Never mind that, first on the agenda I was determined that my breakfast was going to be a Coffee and Beignet.   Café du Monde was my destination.

Cafe du Monde Beignets - New Orleans, Louisana


My last encounter with a Beignet was typically at a French home in the city of  Shiraz, Fars Province in Southern Iran in the good old days of The Shah Pahlavi.  Nothing prepared me for what was put in front of my French Press at Café du Monde in the French Quarter.  Mounds of Beignet covered in powdered sugar.  For those who have never pressed lips to this divine concoction, it is deep fried choux pastry heavily sprinkled with powdered sugar.

Akin to the Thai Pa-Thong Ko, Thai style Chinese Crullers, Beignets are less chewy and more delicate.  The feeling of decadence outweighs any market bought Pa-Thong Ko.   Sipping coffee, and freshly squeezed orange juice,  slowly chewing on this heavenly French concoction in New Orleans has got to be very self indulgent.

With more pressing things on the agenda of the day, I had to detach my self very grudgingly from this homely atmosphere to what was called work awaiting my attention.

Meandering through the French Quarter, I left the party to be reunited with them at dinner time, continued on to discover the area and couldn’t help being drawn into Marie Laveau House of Voodoo in Bourbon Street.   Things that scare me, I cannot resist.



All magical potions, tarot and divination, spiritual talisman and intriguing of all are the spell kits for sale.  As I ventured further into the den of black magic, an astrologer in her booth with incense, complete gypsy head-scarf, hooped earrings, peeked out and declared my fortune should be read.  Never one to decline such a chance, and believe it or not I parted with $50 for this chance…. It was an afternoon sprinkled with zest and voodoo dolls.  I revelled in it and skipped back to the hotel to dress up for dinner to dine at this ghostly haunted restaurant.



Murierl's Jackson Square, French Quarter, New Orleans

Muriel’s Jackson Square Restaurant was my venue and my date tonight was none other than the ghostly presence of Sir Antoine and the spirits of yesteryear and my party of eight dining alongside me.  Southern Creole cuisine is what’s being served tonight and I am clueless but help is at hand.  The chunky French talking, New Orleans waiter was  decisive with my indecision.   He said I could not leave New Orleans without trying their Seafood Gumbo….. how could I resist?   A glass of crisp Reisling accompanied this delectable oysters, shrimp and crab tomato based casserole over a bed of rice.  Okra the definitive Gumbo ingredient swimming alongside with celery and bell peppers just did it for me.  Another glass of Reisling was needed to finish off the plate.   This is going to be one gastronomic treat as we are only on the appetizer course.

Seafood Gumbo


My flirtatious pseudo French waiter again said I must never leave New Orleans without trying  Blackened  Redfish.  A glass of  Sauvignon Blanc, my third glass of the night, I know I’m counting too, was to accompany this tasty dish.





Blackened Redfish


The fish came with a peppery crab stuffing finished off with blue crab butter sauce. Oblivious to stimulating conversations, the Jazz band caught my attention, bellowing Joe Simons Jazz Trio.  I am truly in New Orleans capturing the essence of Creole lifestyle, transported into the Creole awakening…. or was it the wine talking?








Xavier, the waiter, we are now on first name basis, says I now cannot leave New Orleans without tasting  Black Bottom Butterscotch Pudding.  The name is suggestive and is already leaving little or no imagination to an already tipsy mind.  This dessert must be accompanied by Tuaca, a vanilla citrus liqueur,” says Xavier.  At this point I agreed with everything.




This intriguing Black Bottom was house made praline oreos, with a butterscotch pudding on top was just out of this world.  The ending was just as good as the beginning.   I must admit my lack of memory of the walk back to the hotel – it was more of a float as I entered our lobby only to be reminded that tomorrow’s flight to Albuquerque was bright and early.  Ouch. 

 More about intrigue than about food.  See you in New Mexico. 

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